Turkey’s ski centres: Sharing the snow

Winter is a time when many people prefer to travel as little as possible. Not so the skiing community, for whom snow and ice are opportunities not to be missed. Anatolia has a longer skiing history than you might imagine, and each of its venues has a character of its own. From the large, fashionable resort of Uludağ to the modern centres of Kartalkaya and Palandöken, these pages do the rounds.

For some a thrilling battle with the elements; for others a cheerful mug of cocoa or glass of hot wine. For some, an unthinkable expense; for others an everyday habit. Once the despair and mortification of the initiation ceremonies are over, the fellowship of skiing is open to all generations and genders, its benefits for body and spirit outweighing its rather obvious risks.

To Turkey skiing came late – but not very late. The use of skis as a way of getting about, as in today’s cross-country or “Nordic” skiing, may have a four thousand-year history. But the first downhill or “Alpine” ski clubs date back only 100 years, the first ski-lift was not introduced until 75 years ago, and the development of ski resorts for mass consumption is only about 50 years old. Against this background, Mount Erciyes near Kayseri, is said to have acquired its earliest facility as long ago as 1947.

Several centres began their touristic careers as modest retreats for public servants. The ski centre at Mount Uludağ, near Bursa, widely known as Turkey’s oldest, has roots in the activities of the local mountaineering club in the early decades of the Republican era.

Growing investment

By comparison with Europe or the United States, the sport developed slowly, hampered by the limited size of the potential clientele and by transport difficulties. Only within the last twenty years has the number of hotels increased, and new destinations been opened up – the fruits of a marriage of private investment and foreign (generally Austrian) technology.

Skiing may never be cheap. Besides the cost of equipment and lessons, the need for hotels to recuperate their investment costs within the short winter season pushes up prices. But with the increase in available facilities, competition is expected to intensify, and as in other countries prices can be expected to come down. It is possible to hire instructors and rent equipment at various prices at all the main ski centres.

Peaks of choice

The lone dormant volcano of Erciyes attract visitors from all walks of Ankara and Kayseri life. The centre is situated 2,150m up the 3,916m summit. It boasts wide tracks suitable both for beginners and for experienced skiers. Like most of the country’s ski resorts, it is frequented by an occasionally chaotic mixture of casual visitors and experienced sportspeople. The weather here is equally variable. There are only two mountain hotels, but costs can be cut by taking accommodation in the city a half-hour’s drive away.

Kartalkaya, in the pine forests of Bolu, is the choice of the “real skiers”. Conveniently located between Ankara and Istanbul at an altitude of up to 2,200m, this mountain resort offers skiing virtually from the doorstep of the three hotels. The ski-lifts and other facilities are not far removed from those of Colorado or the Alps, and unlike the other resorts, they are generally included in the price, so there is no limit to the ascents and descents. Up to eleven slopes offer variety for skiers of all grades. But family members who do not ski may have trouble passing the time.

The Uludağ scene

No such problems in Uludağ (2,543m), on the outskirts of Turkey’s fourth largest city of Bursa. Thanks to its proximity to Istanbul, the resort has been a favourite of high society for years – a kind of Bodrum-by-winter where the paparazzi snap the oh-so-outraged pop stars in the lobbies and the ‘Televole’ cameras pick out the models at the bar. The night-life hums, and there are walks, sleigh trips, skating or snow-biking by day. Anybody who wants to ski can nevertheless do so, with a mid-winter choice of thirteen slopes.

The whole area was declared a National Park in 1961 on account of its forests and other wildlife. Summer visitors camp, trek, picnic and ride the ‘telesiege’. Two dozen hotels with a total bed capacity of 3-4,000 are grouped into two “hotel zones”, approached from the city by road or – for those without baggage - by “authentic” cable car and minibus.

Options for Ankara

Anatolia’s other ski centres include Saklıkent (Antalya), Bozdağ (İzmir), the new Kartepe venue in Kocaeli, near Istanbul, and Isparta’s Davraz - with its impressive view of Lake Eğirdir. These offer limited facilities and mostly attract adventurous locals, when weather permits. A short slope and the availability of alternatives within range of a long day trip have curtailed the development of Mount Elmadağ (1,862), an hour’s drive East of Ankara, as a civilian ski centre. The area may have a brighter future in excursions and entertainment.

The Mount Ilgaz National Park, at a height of 1,820-2,000m in the province of Kastamonu north of Ankara, beckons “snow-lovers” as well as skiers. The many day-trippers from the capital and other nearby cities and towns are as likely to take their portable barbecues along as their skis. At present, the area is mostly recommended for novices.

International resort

Ski centres in Turkey and many other countries have been challenged by climate change in recent years. In these conditions, Turkey’s mountainous far east has a clear competitive advantage. When the first modern facilities were built at Erzurum’s Mount Paland öken (3,185km), they were considered remote by many Turks. Partly as a result, the region has become Turkey’s only really international resort. Russian and – to a lesser extent – Dutch visitors enjoy the best of the deep snow and natural slopes, while residents of Turkey may have to book early “to avoid disappointment”.

There is a choice of hotels providing various activities, amenities and entertainment, and all are located within a few kilometres of both the city centre and the airport. The Palan Hotel is open all year round with a wide range of services suitable for families and business groups as well as sport and fitness fans. With 28km of ski slopes – including one 12km in length - Palandöken is well suited to become a centre for international winter sports, complete with slaloms to international standards and dry snow throughout the season.

Snows of Sarıkamış

The increase in domestic air traffic and the recent fall in ticket prices also looks set to benefit Sarıkamış, even further northeast in Kars. The five varied ski slopes are located on Mount Cıbıltepe (2,634m), less than an hour’s drive from the provincial centre of Kars and a couple of hours from Erzurum.

Sarıkamış’s pine trees and crystal white snow make it an up-and-coming centre for the adventurous, with adequate facilities and excellent accommodation. The East’s other skiing venues - Bubi Dağı (Ağrı), Sapgör (Bitlis), Hazarbaba (Elazığ), Bolkar (Erzincan) and Zigana (Gümüşhane) – are in need of more attention. It may not be long before they get it.

(DIPLOMAT  -  December 2005  -  Ankara)