Oman: A gentle awakening

by David O’Byrne

The secret is out, investments are under way and in ten years’ time, Oman plans to be the leading tourist destination in its region. Considering the extraordinary natural and historical attractions with which the country is blessed, this is a modest target. But there is no need to wait ten years to check out the intriguing regions, tidy towns and hospitable habits of this country beyond the Gulf. Journalist David O’Byrne, a recent visitor, sets the scene…

“Unspoiled”, “paradise”, “oasis”, “backwater”… Such cliches are employed only too often by guide book writers and advertising hacks to characterise destinations which match up to none of these attributes. When it comes to describing Oman, the same familiar language trips effortlessly off the tongue. But for once, each and every word is entirely justified.

Oman – really - has it all: a heady mix of a long and fascinating history, breathtaking scenery and a unique climate. Its culture owes much to the Islamic Arab cultures to the north but at the same time reveals distinct African, Persian and Indian influences – a blend which makes the indigenous population particularly open and friendly to visitors. There is a growing slate of truly world class hotels and the 1,700-kilometre coastline boasts some of the best beaches on the Indian Ocean.

The country’s historically cautious approach to development suggests that the dolphin, camel and onyx have little to fear from the next round of growth. Oman looks set to remain one of the world’s most interesting and off-beat tourist destinations for many years to come, with more than enough of interest to engage even the most cynical of ‘seen-it-all’ travellers.

Sensible development

Oman’s tourism potential has long been one of the best-kept secrets in the travel world. And not without reason, as the country’s development is relatively recent. In 1970 when the current head of state, Sultan Qaboos Bin Said, ascended to the throne, the country had one school and only ten kilometres of paved roads. Just 500 buildings in the capital Muscat were equipped with electric lights.

Visitors will find it difficult to believe that development has been so recent. But they will have no trouble appreciating that it has been conducted in a largely sympathetic manner. With only minor reserves of oil and gas, Oman has been spared the ‘architectural’ excesses of its Gulf neighbours and has instead ploughed its limited resources into preserving and restoring the hundreds of ancient castles which stud the landscape, and into constructing a modern road network, which allows easy travel between the main tourist sights.

Muscat and the mountains

The modern capital of Muscat, with its good selection of well-appointed hotels, provides the best base for visiting the north of the country. The capital itself is a pleasant, bustling place with innumerable good-value restaurants and a pleasant sweep of coastal promenade leading to a bustling souq. It has been named the cultural capital of the Arab world for 2006. As in all Oman’s cities, the mynah birds are noisily omnipresent.

Car rental is cheap and self driving is by far the best way to travel. Just a few miles inland from the coast and you enter the foothills of the Jebel Akbar mountains whose highest peak, Jebel Shams, rises over 3,000 metres.

The sharp crags give way to a barren moonscape of shattered rock baked in the unrelenting sun. At first glance, it seems that nothing could possibly grow here. But tucked away in myriad valleys and plains are a profusion of small fortress towns and oasis villages, where water gushes from among the dry rocks and flows freely in the cool shade of a million palm trees.

Tourists are still few enough to ensure a warm welcome from locals, who are quick to invite visitors into their homes for the traditional Arab welcome of cool fresh water, sweet tea and locally grown dates.

Swimming in history

Despite the appearance of modern concrete buildings and imported 4WD vehicles, life seems to have changed little in the past two millennia among the date palms and mud brick walls. In fact, the land may have been forgotten by time for long periods, but it still has a fascinating history. The first administration dates back thousands of years to when the area was known as Magun. By the fifth century BCE, the region was under Persian control. It fell to Arab tribes in the second century AD.

It was constant feuding between these tribes which led to the construction of the numerous castles and watchtowers which have made their mark on the region. Particularly impressive is the enormous pre-Islamic fortress at Rustaq, with its three labrynthine levels and four towers. Later came the golden age of Islam and the contact with the colonial empires. A 17th-century souk tumbles from the gateway of the restored fort in Nizwa.

With its honey and hot springs, goat and fruit markets, mud brick houses and mansions, the entire Muscat hinterland has a memorable atmosphere. In the mountains themselves, the so-called Balcony Walk, Grand Canyon and Hanging Village are easily-reached landmarks. Hikers and geologists will get the most out of the scenery. For off-road enthusiasts, there are many more sites to discover down among the endless stony ‘wadi’ (valleys) - dry for most of the year, but many of which conceal secluded pools ideal for bathing.

Charms of the South

Southern Oman - once the home of the Queen of Sheba - offers another dimension in unique experiences. The region is the only place on earth where the Boswellia tree, which produces frankincense, will grow. The trade in this commodity made Oman’s ancient rulers rich and powerful. Southern Oman is also the only place on the west of the Indian Ocean which receives monsoon rains. Every year between June and September the ‘Kahreef’ transforms the southern landscape from a barren desert into a verdant jungle as heavy rains and mists bring the temperatures down to a manageable 20-25C. Plants and wildlife endemic to the area spring from nowhere in a frenzy of growth, only to wither and disappear four months later.

Witnesses of this magical transformation struggle to go on believing that one of the most inhospitable deserts on the planet lies only 200km to the north. But in Oman, the “magical” comes as standard. Or as one ancient Islamic traveller put it: “Oman – what happens there, only God understands.”

(DIPLOMAT  -  January 2006  -  Ankara)