by Asst. Prof. Dr. Fatih MÜDERRİSOĞLU
Wrapped in the inland folds of the Central Black Sea region northeast of Ankara lies the picturesque provincial centre of Amasya. It is one of the few Anatolian towns to be situated on a major river, and at the same time a treasure trove of ancient, Seljuk and Ottoman monuments just waiting to be visited.
The Oxford of Anatolia, the Mysterious City of the Crown, the City of Princes… It is not surprising that Amasya has earned so many epithets. For few of Anatolia’s provincial centres are so at peace with their natural surroundings. Built along the winding Yeşilirmak, or Iris, its houses drink from the river and take shelter from the valley walls. To one side rises Harşena Mountain, with a castle atop an elevation; on the opposite side appear the spectacular terraces of Çakallar. This was the birthplace of the ancient geographer Strabon. Later it became a staging post on the Silk Road, and even today it boasts dozens of architectural structures of monumental importance.
Amasya’s fruit is the apple which bears its name, its vegetable the okra and its literary legend the tragic love story of Ferhat and Şirin. Its fertile soils are believed to have been settled for the first time in the Chalcolithic Age. Since then, the Hittites, the Kingdom of Pontus, the Roman Empire, the Seljuks and the Ottomans have all left their cultural imprints on the city.
Ancient structures
During the period when Amasya was capital of the Pontus Kingdom, graves were carved out of the rock on the slopes overlooking the river. These rock graves were the resting places of kings. Today, they are illuminated with purple light at night - a beautiful addition to the striking Amasya skyline. By day, visitors can drive up to the castle, built over the rocks so as to dominate the city, and take in the magnificent setting of the settlement known in classical times as “Amaseia” or “Amasselas”.
The river divides the city into two parts and the narrowest part of the valley forms the old city centre. A number of ancient structures can still be seen and visited here, including the arches of the bridge and some ruined city walls. Other relics that have defied earthquakes, floods, fires, invasions and human damage are on display nearby in the provincial museum.
Seljuks, Mongols and Ottomans
The city centre is dominated by Seljuk and Ottoman buildings. Outstanding Seljuk works include the Gök Mosque and Dome, the Torumtay Dome, the Halifet Gazi Dome, the Burmalı Minare Mosque and Dome, the Künç Bridge and the Tomb of Sultan Mesud. This last is also used as an extension to the museum, where Mongol mummies are on display. The Mongols took control of the settlement at one time, and were responsible for the construction of its 700 year-old hospital, which is now in use as the municipal conservatory.
The Ottomans conquered Amasya in the 1390s and were quick to turn it into a busy commercial centre, a cultural melting pot and a focus of artistic activity. The cosmopolitan environment was enhanced by architects, artists and merchants arriving via the Silk Road from Iran or the Baghdad Road from Iraq. The Müşeyemeş Family from Damascus produced experts in coloured stone embellishing, the Kapıağası Medrese was built with inspiration from Iran, and locally-born Sheikh Hamdullah was a leading master of the art of calligraphy. Another fine example of the cultural atmosphere of the day is the hand-written medical manuscript of Şerafettin Sabuncuoğlu, also born in Amasya, illustrated with miniature paintings.
Age of the princes
Only a few remains are visible today of the Palace of the Princes, which was built below the rock tombs during the Ottoman period. Under the Ottoman system of administration, especially during the 15th and 16th centuries, the sons of the Sultan were sent away to govern certain provinces, selected by the state, in the company of their hodjas, mothers and attendants. Thus the ‘şehzade’ gained their first experience of administration. Among the provinces singled out for this purpose, Amasya was of special importance. Bayezid I, Mehmed I, Murad II, Mehmed II, Bayezid II, Selim I and Murad III all succeeded to the throne while acting as governor at Amasya.
The 15th and early 16th centuries constituted the most brilliant period in Amasya’s history. The sultans, the princes and their mothers, the grand vizier, the ‘kapıağası’ and the religious leaders vied to endow the city with works of charity that would immortalize their names. The most important of these works was a complex of buildings consisting of a mosque, medrese (theology school) and almshouse built near the river opposite the rock tombs by Şehzade Ahmed for his father, Sultan Bayezid II. The complex is still in good condition, and the mosque, located in a large garden full of plane trees, is still in use as the biggest religious structure of the city, well worth a visit for its rich architecture and decoration.
Living in style
Other Ottoman works worthy of attention include the Kapıağası Medrese, the Bedesten (market place), the Hatuniye and Yörgüç Pasha mosques, the Çilehane (Yakup Pasha Lodge), the baths and the Ottoman houses built along the bank of the river. These riverside homes are known as the ‘Yalıboyu’. Some have boathouses, probably in an attempt to emulate the Bosphorus-side ‘yalı’ of Istanbul. The Hazeranlar Mansion, which has been converted into a museum, is an interesting example of the prosperous, gratifying aristocratic lifestyle once associated with the city.
In recent years, busts of Bayezid II and the other sultans who governed the province as princes have been erected on a platform adjacent to the river. They are joined in this souvenir setting by busts, statues and reliefs depicting Strabon, Ferhat and Şirin and the visit of Atatürk.
Staying over
The attractions of Amasya cannot be appreciated in a single day. Fortunately, a number of old houses along the riverside have been turned into hotels and guest houses. By way of an alternative, the hotels in the Çakallar area offer views of the city’s unique silhouette, which is illuminated by night. Don’t forget to ask for the facilities where local flavours are served. Those with a little extra time on their hands may wish to visit Lake Boraboy and the spas and town centres of the Merzifon and Gümüşhacıköy districts – all within the borders of Amasya province. Also in striking distance are Ballıca Cave and Tokat.
(DIPLOMAT - January 2006 - Ankara)