Cunda: the complete island

by Recep Peker Tanıtkan

Just a bridge away from Ayvalık, Cunda has a rhythm and a routine of its own which defies the twists of history. Our travel correspondent samples the scented atmosphere and offers a few tips on what to see and eat.

Pine and olive trees, historic buildings, stone houses, local wine and seafood, cool evening breezes and ripply sunsets… Lying off Ayvalık, on the Balıkesir coast, Cunda has all you could ask for in an island.  It is large enough to take a country walk around the coast, small enough that you never lose sight or scent of the sea.

Known as Moshinos –the scented island - to its Greek inhabitants in the pre-Republican era, it was later named after Ali Bey, a hero of the Turkish resistance. But among the Turks of the region, the name Cunda – itself of disputed origin – has survived to this day.

Until 1964, there was no bridge and consequently no roads. Today it is possible to reach Cunda by car, by public minibuses or using the municipal bus service, and even to drive around. In summer, however, the motorboat from Ayvalık remains much the most enjoyable form of transport. Those arriving by car must park at the entrance in order to wander down the narrow streets.

Moonlight monastery

Cunda is noted for its many disused churches and monasteries. The four walls of Agios Ioannis are visible as you disembark, standing on the hill on the left – an elevation which in recent times has come to be known as “Lovers’ Hill”. The biggest church is Taxiarchis, a metropolitan church built in 1873. Its huge bell is now on display in the Bergama Museum. Remnants of the wall of the Panagia Church are visible from Bakkal Sokağı (“Grocer’s Street”),

Of the eight monasteries known to have been founded on the island, the most famous is Agios Dimitrios Ta Selina, meaning Moonlight. Understood to be over 200 years old, its remains form an unusual silhouette at the end of an earthen track on an arm of the island jutting out into the sea to the North.

Another well-known local landmark is the famous Taş Kahve - or “Stone Coffee Shop”. With its inviting sea-front façade, its coloured windows and high ceilings, it has an atmosphere all of its own, and a tea break here is an essential part of any visit to Cunda. Both Cunda itself and Ayvalık offer pleasant hotels and attractive boutique guest houses for visitors wishing to spend the night.

A way with fish

When the last rays of sunshine glance off the sea, the fish restaurants flicker to life. As everywhere in the Aegean, select your fish yourself and fix the price in advance. The proprietor’s bargaining power will depend on the abundance of customers. A nice stew of a fish locally known as bakalarios - a sort of whiting – is worth a try. A stew of scorpion fish – normally used only in soups – makes an intriguing alternative. “Classier” items including lobster are available but pricy. There is never any shortage of octopus. If you are looking for the little papalina - the island’s speciality fish and the indispensable accompaniment for rakı in its old taverns – enquire before being seated. Nowadays some restaurants do not serve it - or may claim not to have any – because it is so inexpensive.

The dining table would be much poorer without the region’s fabled herbs. The unique sour flavour of radika (chicory) is ubiqutous, but salads and appetizers concocted of turp otu (wild radish), arapsaçı (baby’s tears, to the gardener) and istifno - to name but a few - may have to be ordered. Note the persistence of Greek names for some plants and fish. And check the menu for fava – a pâté of broad beans decorated with dill and pure olive oil.

(DIPLOMAT  -  January 2005  -  Ankara)